Inspired: Stephen Burrows, The Optimist.

Vogue September 1977 Layout with Jerry Hall, Iman, Pat Cleveland and various models holding Stephen Burrows.

I have had major NYC envy lately. Public art installations, cherry blossom festivals and central park come to mind…. But my design loving heart is pining away for not being able to make the Stephen Burrows retrospective at the Museum of the City of New York, Stephen Burrows: When Fashion Danced. The exhibit encapsulates a grand display of Burrows designs from the 60′s through the 70′s.

 “The essence of Stephen Burrows — be happy when you’re in the clothes and have fun with what you’re wearing. I’m very simplistic about things like that. That’s just how I am.”                                                              –Stephen Burrows to WWD

Both of Stephen Burrows’ grandmothers, were sample hands for Hattie Carnegie in the 1920s. He went to art school then graduated from FIT in NYC. He started out making pieces for friends while working as the designer for a blouse company until he and a friend began a small boutique which closed in the late 60′s. He was then invited by Geraldine Stutz President of Henry Bendel to work in the Henry Bendel studio where he was mentored by Pat Tennant the head of their design studio.  In 1970 Burrows launched his collection Stephen Burrows World at Henry Bendel where his kinetic designs were well received.

Stephen Burrows World Collection by Henry Bendel Photo: Charles Tracy

Photo Courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art

In 1973 Burrows was one of the five American designers who participated in the historic  fashion spectacular at Versailles, a benefit event to restore the Palace of Versailles. Top American and French designers faced off for high fashion bragging rites, with the underestimated Americans coming out on top and leveling the fashion playing field.

A documentary on the event, Versailles ’73 will be screening at the Los Angeles County Museum of Art (LACMA) April 22nd. I hope to make it to the screening! The show broke color barriers in fashion with both Burrows invitation and its use of a dozen Black models in the American show in this international platform. Burrows won the Coty American Fashion Critics award in 1973, 1974 and 1977.

Known for his extensive use of jersey, viscose and other “touch friendly” fabrics, lettuce leaf hems, bright endless use of color, metallics and pattern mixing it should be needless to say Stephen Burrows is one of the pioneers of color-blocking.

Photo Courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art

Photo Courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art

Photo Courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art

In 1977, The New York Times called Burrows the “brightest star of American fashion.”  His style of clothing became a kind of standard uniform at Studio 54 and was seen on the likes of free spirited icons, Cher, Liza Minelli and Diana Ross. Stephen Burrows is still designing and has continuously reinvented his career, but the breadth of this retrospective on his early career is just jaw dropping.

Did I say how very sad I am to not make it to New York this spring!?I would have loved to see the extensive collection of photographs, drawings, and original garments. The exhibition will be on display into July.

If you can, go and enjoy. If you’re like me, and won’t make it, let’s revel over the exhibit’s coffee table book Stephen Burrows: When Fashion Danced. Le Sigh.

Photo: Charles Tracy 1973

Pat Cleveland in Burrows’ 1972 Lettuce Leaf Wrap Dress

Stephen Burrows Fire Island Collection 1969 Photo: Chalres Tracy

Pat Cleveland and Stephen Burrows c.1972

The Resurrection Fashion & Art Event

 

Join SweetLeigh at this fab fashion art event for music, cocktails and 10:30p.m. Fashion show! We’ll be vending and strutting our stuff on the runway! XOXO

 

5 Questions: Tess Munster

Tess in a SweetLeigh headpiece. Photo: Girlie Show

Tess Munster is a single mom and a model over size 20 in an industry where Plus begins at size 8 and is a struggle for a size 18.  Tess overcame child hood & adult bullying and dropping out of school, to earn her GED, travel the west coast as a makeup artist, and become one of Refinery 29′s Top 6 Plus Superstar Models.  

She’s even started up a movement cheering on fat fashionistas to rock their most daring fashion regardless of size, and tag those posts and images #effyourbeautystandards. You’ll find thousands of tagged photos and posts on twitter and instagram already. 

Tess may have been an outsider/underdog in the H.S. movie of her life, but she’s all grown up and less interested in kicking ass and taking names than living well and inspiring others to do the same. Bonus, my mother is totally in love with her. 

Five questions for Tess Munster:

1. You have kind of revolutionized Plus modeling in a crazy short period of time by becoming an icon of self love and body acceptance. When did you realize your voice was as powerful as your images and did you ever think pursuing a career in modeling and fashion would have such a Transformational effect on so many people?

When I started getting messages from women pouring their hearts out to me, telling me things they haven’t told anyone else, it hit me. I had always wanted to model, but never in a billion years did I think I would actually be successful or have the impact on women that I’ve had. It’s been a very humbling experience.

2. What advice do you have for anyone considered plus sized on getting into the Fashion industry, whether modeling or otherwise?

Think long and hard about why you want to do it. Its a VERY tough industry to work in and you have to have thick skin. I’ve learned that the hard way. It’s very rewarding, but it’s a lot more work then you think.

3. How do you describe your personal style and how did it evolve?

Goodness! Eclectic?! I just love fashion, and I don’t really follow trends. I love accessories, and I’m constantly buying those and pairing it with items already in my closet. My own personal sense of style didn’t really come into it’s own until I started modeling. I had more access to designers then I had ever heard of, and that really opened my world up to endless possibilities.

4. You are a southern girl, and only in Los Angeles for a few years what is your favorite thing about L.A.?

The Diversity. I love the culture, the people, the food – honestly I just really love L.A. I feel like I’m a California Girl at heart.

5. If you were an ice cream flavor, which flavor would you be??
Rocky Road. It pretty much sums up my life: A little rough, but sweet!

You can find out more about what Tess is up to on facebook and her website. You can also keep up with her #effyourbeautystandards campaign on twitter and instagram.

Ebony Fashion Fair 50th Anniversary

My recent piece for the Morningside Park Chronicle Newspaper.

Eunice W. Johnson and her husband, publisher John H. Johnson, co-founded Black lifestyle magazine, Ebony. Eunice Johnson founded Ebony Fashion Fair in 1956, a feature in Ebony magazine that would evolve into a traveling fashion show bringing the latest in haute couture fashion to Black communities across the United States. The Chicago History Museum honors Mrs. Johnson and her massive collection of couture in Inspiring Beauty: 50 Years of Ebony Fashion Fair. It is now on exhibit through January 2014.

Eunice was often the only black buyer in the room on her trips to shop the Fashion shows in Europe. She didn’t necessarily gain entrance very easily. Johnson represented an invisible affluent black population able and willing to wear the best fashions. Unfortunately they were hindered by limited access to high fashion, necessitating the traveling shows. They were glamorous shows in which comedians, singers and musicians took part.

However, the huge ensembles packed on to not-so-glamorous Greyhound buses. For the fashion troupes, it was fashion democratized right down to its essence.

Oscar De La Renta credits Johnson for being the first fashion show producer to put music on the runway. In the midst of segregation, Mrs. Johnson brought top European designers of the season like Yves Saint Laurent, Halston and Christian Dior to black Americans. In the course of it she altered perceptions and inspired designers like Emilio Pucci to cast black models in their shows.

Eunice W. Johnson

Being a part of Fashion Fair was a brave endeavor and not without risk.

As the civil rights movement—and reactions to it— grew, the Greyhound busses were often met by Ku Klux Klan members; race riots were the occasional result. The fashion shows were hosted by sororities, churches and the like, and the models and performers were often put up in private homes when denied access to hotels. Mrs. Johnson’s mission of bringing high fashion to Black America was a model in grass roots organizing.

The Fair gave back to the community raising $55 million dollars for charities over its duration. As time progressed she made it a priority to feature great black designers like Stephen Burrows, Willi Smith and Patrick Kelly.

By the 1970s Mrs. Johnson had started Fashion Fair Cosmetics in response to the challenges her models were having with finding the right makeup for their skin color.

Bringing the latest in European fashion to black Americans on black models told black women that we deserved luxury, were capable of having it and as museum exhibit co-curator, Joy Bivins told W Magazine, “You are your own beauty standard.”

I call that nothing less than revolutionary for fashion and society, in 1958 or today.

I think it’s time for a trip to Chicago.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

All images in this post are readily available on the Internet and believed to be in public domain. 

Gush: Shingai Shoniwa

I am a huge fan of Shingai Shoniwa. Shoniwa is lead singer, bassist and co-writer and half of the Noisettes, the other half being guitarist Dan Smith. I first heard of them when they released their second album Wild Young Hearts in 2009. I quickly ran out and bought their first album What’s the Time Mr. Wolf? Last year their 3rd album Contact came out with some fresh sounds and it only confirmed that I’m utterly addicted to their brand of Pop Punk Soul.

Besides her being an amazing, singer, musician and writer she is a true style icon. It’s not surprising that Professional Natural Hair brand Mizani, a division of L’Oreal has chosen her to be their first celebrity face. The London native of Zimbabwe descent has the coolest hair, ever. Not to mention a gorgeous perspective on her art.  Read more about Shingai in this great interview from Celebrity Red Carpet from last fall.

the Noisettes

Ad campaign for Dr. Martens

Courtesy of Mizani

SweetLeigh x SKORCH Magazine

It’s here, the latest issue of SKORCH Magazine and the SweetLeigh accessories feature!! I am beside myself. Here are some images from the shoot by fabulous Emilie Collier of Emilie Collier Photography. Ava Sfez, fellow milliner and model makes it look so very easy. Go to SKORCH mag to check out the final Amelie Inspired layout!

When Ava Du Vernay met Miu Miu

Ava DuVernay directs the The Door, Miu Miu’s spring 2013 campaign. Under 10 minutes, it is the fifth in a series of fashion films called “Women’s Tales” celebrating the power of women and their bonds.  Ava DuVernay was the first …

Inspired: Cult of California Lookbook Spring 2013

If you have been reading the blog for any time its needless to say I am a fan of Jen Wilder, the designer behind Cult of California. She has a vision for women and is an advocate for inclusion, fashion, …

Cinephile: 25 Feminist Films I Love

I am exhausted. I am exhausted by the Oscars where by and large year after year, straight white men pat each other on the back. I am exhausted in general, by sophomoric misogynistic barbs that pass as humor.  I am exhausted …

CineStyle: Carmen Jones

Carmen Jones works in the parachute factory of an army camp. She is the object of all the men’s desire, but only has eyes for Joe, the one man who doesn’t give her a second glance. Joe is engaged to Cindy …